Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Monday 20 September - Vinny, the Gang of Three and Two St. Peters

One of the clients cracked me up last night at dinner. He is from the LA area but his regional accent is definitely East Coast NY or NJ. He's Mr. Ferrari. Arriving at the airport, he was sporting a ballcap, a windbreaker and a tee-shirt with the logo. After checking in at the hotel, he changed into a polo shirt for the "welcome" mixer and dinner with, you guessed it, a Ferrari logo. I am sensing a trend in his wardrobe...

He sidled up to Frank and I as we were seating for the dinner in our section of the restaurant and said, "My name is Vince. Please call me Vince, Vincent, Vinnie, Vin-Man, whatever you'd like. I know we're here for the art and architecture, and I know we're not going anywhere near the car factories, but do either of you know anything about Ferrari? I'm an enthusiast."

Perfect. Picture Joe Pesci in "My Cousin Vinny" but instead of the part where he's saying YOOTS for "youths" we've got ENTOOSIEST.

I told him what I don't know offhand I would be happy to research for him. Was he looking for something as a souvenir? They have Ferrari merchandise stores in Rome, Florence and Venice that he can shop in. Or did it have to do with the Formula One race team?

That was it - he wanted to know where and when the next race was. He was in Italy and wanted to be able to say he watched a race while he was here (on tv, mind you.) Too bad the last race actually was the Italy Grand Prix, in Monza. The Ferrari team finished 1st and 3rd - people were still talking about it in the streets when I was in Venice, with the Ferrari flags in their apartment windows.

I told him the next race was on Sunday the 26th in Singapore. It will be on at 8pm on Rai-1. Frank looked rather impressed with throwing this out there, as did Vince. I told them I had looked it up after a conversation with my Dad, also a racing enthusiast. Vince asked me why so late? I told him it's in Singapore and there are time zones to consider. "I guess I'll tell my wife I'm eating in the room that night." Come to Italy - eat in your room. To each his own.

Okay, on to Monday's adventures...

Before heading out on the bus I gave a quick talk at breakfast about water in Rome. How does a city or civilization flourish to over a million people? Water. I gave an overview of aqueducts and water delivery systems that are still in use in Rome and throughout the country. I also let them know that while bottled water is provided for us all on the bus during the tour, when that bottle is empty, try carrying it around with you and filling it in one of the water spigot fountains you see in all the cities we visit. The water is better than what we have at home. For example, the water in Venice comes from the Dolomite mountains, where water is bottled for San Benedetto water that is shipped all over the world. The fountains in Rome have the same water sources they did in the days of the Caesars, and it's perfectly fine to drink as it.

We toured the ancient sites of the Colosseum, Forum and the Pantheon. We also went to a favorite church of mine near the Colosseum - called San Pietro in Vincoli, St. Peter's in Chains. This is the church dedicated to St. Peter when he was incarcerated in Mamertine prison. It was built to house the chains of Peter. The legend has it that when the chains of his final imprisonment in Rome and the chains from his earlier incarceration while in Jerusalem (by Herod) were introduced to Pope Leo I, they miraculously fused together. While that is a matter of one's faith to believe, I like the church because it houses one of Michelangelo's most powerful statues - that being Moses.

It was originally intended to be the tomb of Pope Julius II, Michelangelo's patron and the bane of his existence (see: that whole Sistine chapel thing, but then again Michaelangelo fought with more than one Pope in all fairness) and while Julius is buried in the "other" St. Peter's as Popes tend to be, this church was the home of Julius' family, the Delle Rovere family and he had been Cardinal there prior to ascending to Popedom. The funeral monument was intended to have 47 figures on it, but it was scaled down considerably and not completed until 30 years after Julius died. Moses looks kinds of angry here. And those are not horns on his head - they are "tongs of fire" as translated from original aramaic-language Bible text, like the rays of light or halos, and are more easily depicted in paintings.


Michaelangelo famously believed that the figures in his statues were already in the marble, just waiting to be released by chipping away the excess material. With the figure of Moses nearing completion he was having difficulty getting it right. He thrust his hammer into the knee, yelling "Why don't you speak to me?" Moses apparently responded because the hammer strike caused a spark and knocked the artist backward to the ground. Two dudes I don't want to mess with - Moses & Michaelangelo. Maybe that's why Moses looks pissed off.

So we were here first, then on to the ancient sites, and on over to Vatican City for lunch and to the other Saint Peters. The more famous one.

It was during the very short bus ride from Piazza Navona to lunch near the Vatican that I named the Gang of Three. There are three mannerisms that make me insane, my friends can tell you: people who absent-mindedly jingle the change in their pockets, people who snap, crack and pop their gum, and people who think it's perfectly acceptable to clip your nails anywhere except the privacy of your own bathroom. I guess my husband is the one who knows about that last one. I have one of each on this bus with me. And I can't wear earplugs because I have to pay attention and take copious notes on what Frank is saying at any given moment.

Maybe I need to start meditating and strive for being more Zen. But until then, I have to ignore the idiosyncrasies of paying clients and *smile* even though it's making me batshit crazy.

The afternoon was free and after my office hours I walked up to Villa Borghese, which is near our hotel. I wanted to go to the museum, but there wasn't enough time. Instead I bought a ticket with a reservation time for the next day, since I would have more open time then.

That evening was open for everyone to make their own dinner plans. Frank and I went out for beer and sausages at L'Antica Birreria Peroni, a few blocks from the Trevi fountain. Have I told you all how much I am liking Frank? I love that in a city full of Roman cuisine he wants to go to a German-style brathaus. Then again, I always eat Chinese food in other countries. The Birreria also has pasta dishes galore, but they are known for their sausages. He frequents the place, so even when the lines are long to get in, the waitstaff manages to find a place for him to sit. There were a lot of lovely sausages, but I am still in search of the elusive porchetta sandwich. More on that later. Sausages will suffice for now. It's all pork product of one kind or another. And pigs are yummy.

We had a lovely time and had a few beers with our meal. Frank told me I'm doing a great job so far. We walked back to the hotel - uphill all the way - oy. I made sure not to complain, since walking is expected of us as tour leaders. I also made sure I didn't pass out.

Back at the hotel, we had a nightcap and Fran bid me adieu for the night. I stayed in the bar for a while and chatted with the bartender. Turns out he was a student of my friend Giorgio, who teaches bartending courses at the big trade school near Venice, but also teaches advanced courses all over Italy. Giorgio is on the Board of the Italian Barman Association as well as the International Barman Association. He literally wrote their handbook, which is used all over the world. I helped with some of the translation on the latest edition a few years back, so I have a writing credit in the small print.

Roberto told me if I wanted to wait until he was off work at 2AM he would take me to see the sites of Rome lit up at night. Um, no thanks. I'm not putting myself in an awkward position. Time to call it a night.

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