I'm only sleeping until about 3AM, which is about four hours. I know it's because I'm excited and keyed up, but I don't want to start looking like I have Samsonite under my eyes. It'll work itself out somehow.
Another lecture at breakfast - this one relating to painting in Venice's heyday. The use of oil painting set Venice apart from other art-cities early on. Egg/tempera-based paints faded and quickly deteriorated in the humidity from being surrounded by so much water. Suspending the pigment in linseed oil not only created more vivid colors but ultimately extended longevity by "sealing" the rich colors and textures in. The fact that Venice was also the most powerful trading and shipping hub in the world lent itself to the painters having access (and at a better $$ rate) to these pigments being brought from all over the world to make their paints. It was a haven for painters.
We walked from the hotel to the Rialto bridge and over into the morning markets. There has been a daily market there since 1097. The produce is always impeccable and the fish are artfully stacked and arranged, just waiting for the cameras to begin snapping away. We then walked to the Frari church to see the works of Titian and see the still-vivid colors I spoke about in my talk earlier.
Everyone was free to go at that point, with the reminder that we would meet in the lobby at 7PM for our farewell dinner that evening. I was required to be at the hotel for office hours from 11-12, so I made my way back to the hotel, stopping on the way to pick up SIM cards at the Vodafone store for my niece Katherine and her husband Chris who are arriving on Friday morning for their honeymoon in Italy. I have a bag of goodies for them - maps, guidebooks, eating recommendations and cellphones.
Nobody needed me during my required time and afterward I headed up to Cannaregio district for a walk. I was trying to find a new cafe I read about, Il Santo Bevetore, which is the sister to a lovely establishment in Florence that Luke, Charlene and I went to in February '09. I wanted to see if it was only a winebar and cafe, or served food as well. The Florentine location was a favorite meal of mine, and not just because of my fabulous traveling companions. It was the best cheese plate ever!
I found the general vicinity, but had neglected to write down the address, so I will have to come back. I hope they have food - it was damned good. On the way back to the hotel I stopped at EuroCity, the "dollar" store. I picked up some bars of soap to bring home as gifties. Natural, handmade Italian vegetable soap is good stuff, with plant extracts and citrus oils or goat's milk. I don't like perfumed bar soap at home, but this stuff is like a glycerine soap in that it isn't drying to your skin at all. Plus if I could find some with lavender or tea tree oil it may help with my itching mosquito bites. Arrgh. Back to the soap - there is a brand, Nesti-Dante that you can find in the "dollar" stores and grocery stores for about 1Euro that back in the US is only available in specialty shops, and it's about $12 a bar. I found bars with pomegranate and tea tree oil, grapefruit and bergamot and mertillo (a berry that is kind of a cross between blueberry and cranberry.) Score!
That evening, in all our finery, we headed out by private taxis to the Palazzo Nani-Balbi, one of the great houses on the Grand Canal for our farewell dinner. The tour company arranges this for the last night of all their tours for the guests. It's a beautiful send-off. We were met at the boats by performers in Commedia dell'Arte costumes and showed to the garden in the back where musicians played and appetizers and prosecco-filled glasses were handed around. Venturing up into the palazzo we were given a tour of the place and its furnishings, including the largest Murano glass chandelier I have ever seen. The thing was ten feet wide at least.
We ate a wonderful Venetian meal sporting lots of fish (but there was stuffed chicken for those not inclined) and local flavors. We took pictures, we laughed, the group shared their favorite moments of the tour. I was very happy to see two people mentioned their favorite part of the trip was when I joined in their group- they liked my lectures and "walk & talks." I'm so pleased - I had been with them for only the last part of their tour. Yay!
Climbed back in the taxis and sang our way back to the hotel, where they were reminded once more to have their luggage outside their door before 6am so it could be transported to the airport. Unless they were staying on a few more days, of course.
I stayed in the bar for a while, talking with my bartender friends Luana and Serena, then crashed in my room. My weekend will start at 8AM. Whoo hoo.
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