In the 1630 yet another plague wave broke out in Northern Italy. The city of Mantova was particularly devastated, both by the disease - and a famine, as the city had been isolated by the surrounding peoples. The Duke of Mantova was faced with the total extermination of the city. In an act of desperation he sent ambassadors by river to Venice to seek help, since the cities held allegiances to each other.
Venice honored the pact of mutual need, and received the ambassadors, but quarantined them on the uninhabited island of San Servolo. Unfortunately, one of the carpenters sent ahead to prepare accommodations for the dignitaries brought the plague with him. The spread of the infection was phenomenal. In the week following the death of the carpenter - and all his family - there were ten more deaths in the immediate neighborhood, and a hundred in the city itself. In a very short time, in spite of the restrictions set by the authorities, the population was decimated, over forty percent of the city was wiped out. The Doge and most of his family perished, as the disease did not distinguish aristocrats from commoners, not forgiving monks and priests.
The failure of every medicine and known method to ward off the disease drove the government and people to look to religion to save them. A procession was organized in which almost all 10,000 survivors participated. They walked incessantly around Piazza San Marco for three days and nights, with torches and votive statues. Finally a pronouncement was made that, if the city escaped total devastation, they would build a temple of a size and beauty never seen before.
In the following week the progress of the epidemic slowed, and within two weeks it diminished altogether. Now, in this day and age we know that the disease was just running its course and there are always a group of people who find themselves immune to disease, but not so long ago it was easily believed that their vigils and prayers had stopped the deaths from progressing.
November 21st is the anniversary of the consecration of the church in 1687. Every year it is celebrated with a pilgrimage to the church and by lighting candles in prayer and reverence to the Virgin Mary for everyone's health.
These days it's a children's festival, with sweets and snacks for sale (along with a lamb dish, castradine, that is found only here and only on this festival day.) Perhaps because it is a tradition that Venetians are used to follow since childhood, perhaps because health is an important issue for everybody, the Salute is appreciated regardless of religion or philosophy, and the procession to the Salute continues from morning to night.
So they erect a votive bridge, a temporary bridge on pontoons from Santa Maria del Giglio across the Grand Canal to Salute. Masses are said every hour from 6AM to 10PM and thousands of people walk over the bridge to the church.
I met Marco and Mamma at San Zaccaria at 7:30AM. There was no need for me to go over to Giudecca when we were just coming back to this side of the canal. We wheeled her over to the votive bridge. Where there were bridges to cross at San Moise and Giglio, she carefully climbed the stairs. The votive bridge didn't have steps so he wheeled her across that and up the ramps to the church. The smell of warm wax was everywhere. This is a big, octagonal shaped church and it's usually chilly, but the amount of candles (big ones, two to three feet in length, purchased outside the church in the stalls and campos nearby) burning has created heat. That and all the bodies inside.
Since I have known them, they have bought and lit candles for me and prayed for my health of and that of my family. I now did the same for them.
We made our way back across the votive bridge and I took my leave at the hotel. I had to meet up with the Florida gals. I told them I would see them at dinner. Marco said he would provide it, no cooking for me today. I hoped it would be pizza or rotisserie chicken again, I don't want the castradine mutton so much.
Interesting day with the ladies, Carrie and Gail. Completely opposite in how they live their lives and in temperament, in likes and dislikes of every kind. But they've been friends since they were twelve and they have a bond that can't be broken. I completely relate.
I took them through the San Marco and Cannaregio areas for souvenir shopping and beads, then out the northern part of the city on the vap to Murano and Burano. They were so happy to see areas that weren't wall to wall tourists, you get that when you step away from the main drag. We ate at the Gatto Nero for the wonderful seafood risotto and John Dory fish. Fabulous. We came back through Rialto and I took them in a few churches to see the altarpieces and art. I walked their feet off.
Came back to the hotel about 6PM and had a glass of wine to celebrate the day together. We exchanged email addresses and phone numbers, as Carrie comes to San Francisco once a year to see her family there. Excellent. She's the fun one with the free spirit. We'll get along fine. Gail was a bit... needy and persnickety.
While we were waiting for the boat on Burano to come back, I got a phone call from HQ in Connecticut. It was the CEO, who had called me a few weeks ago after the Cinque Terre flooding. She wanted apologize first and foremost and promised that they are rectifying the situation. I told her I appreciate that and I appreciate her being hands-on in this, but it's past the point for me. I explained that I have worked for large and medium sized organizations in their payroll department and in HR and I have never seen a situation where this couldn't be fixed pretty much immediately. When I worked for Kaiser and CSAA they could cut a check that day for someone. I've seen at CSAA where a high level manager wrote a personal check to an employee. This organization is not that large. If it was a client dispute, they would be able to credit them or cut a check immediately. I just don't understand. They could cut me a check for part of the payroll owed and I would be satisfied, but it shouldn't have to come to ultimatums.
She completely agreed. I told her I really don't want to leave, but I think it would be best. She told me there is absolutely no hard feelings on their side, and she would like me to consider coming back. Go home for the holidays and they will recall me in the new year.
She explained that they won't consider this a termination of any kind, unless I want that. Usually for the first year or two until a guide gets fully-seasoned with this company, they work them only two months overseas, and one month at home. They offered me the longer stint after only my interview trip and one stint on my own, because they really thought I was doing a good job. They still think I'm doing a great job, but we all agree that it's okay for me to go home for the holidays since I wasn't really expected to be coming over here for more than two months until well into the future. They are going to delete me from the payroll system as a termination and pay me out, then put me back in. And why couldn't we do this before????? Dunno. But, everything is copacetic as far as all parties are concerned.
So that's that. She handed me off to the travel department and they gave me an itinerary for my flights home. Through London again. Ugh.
Called Hub-Unit and rambled a little information into his voicemail, then called my parents. Then went and told the famiglia here. Mamma cried a little but she's happy I get to go home and see my people. "It's been difficult for you. You need no stress in the life for some time now, Kricka."
My mental outlook has brightened immediately at the news. I ordered a turkey immediately online.
No comments:
Post a Comment